Recently, my interest in basketball has really increased.

He's begun to feel that just having team practice once a week (which just involves games) isn't enough for him, and recently he's started going to the basketball court in the park every time he has a day off to practice his shooting by himself.

There are three goals, but since it's a public court, the users range from elementary school kids to people in their 50s, but sometimes there are times when it's just me and the elementary school kids.

Hello, I'm not a suspicious person. Please don't report me. This is Miya.

Well, today.

[BROTURES KICHIJOJI STUFF BIKE CHECK!! ~Miya Edition~]

So this is another project that makes you wonder, "How long has it been?"

We're going to be checking the bikes of the Kichijoji store staff, so I'll be the one to start it off. I'm Miya, a skinny basketball player who suddenly became the store manager this year.

This is going to be a really long post, so if possible, try to read it when you're in good spirits and have the mental space to do so.

Well then, I'll be off.

First, here is the appearance from the outside.
It's quite cluttered, but this is how I'm riding it at the moment, and I mainly use it for commuting (10km round trip).
The first premise is that I have another NJS that is a "serious" spec that I've been putting together with great effort.

So this one is more like a second bike that can be ridden relatively casually.
If you have multiple generations of equipment, choosing parts based on specs and grade can be difficult, but we recommend clearly ranking them so that the criteria for part selection are clear.
My current focus when riding this bike is speed > convenience.
Not that it's because of that, but when I measured the weight of the car while writing this blog, it was slightly over 10kg. It's really heavy.
However, my personal thoughts on "weight" have changed considerably over the nearly four years since I joined BROTURES.
A heavy bike doesn't necessarily mean it's bad.

This is already getting long, so please see the store for the rest.

The frame is AFFINITY CYCLES METROPOLITAN.
The color is FILM GRAIN and the size is C-C540, medium.
Recently, in the gym we rented for basketball, there was a height chart there, probably because of the season, so I tried measuring myself, but no matter how hard I tried, I was only 179cm tall.
When I think about the fact that I will only continue to shrink from now on, various thoughts cross my mind, such as how high the 180cm wall is that I was never able to overcome, and what if only I had drunk just a few dozen milliliters more of milk a day back then.
Anyway, if you are 179cm tall, I think the M size would be just right. If you are considering METOROPOLITAN, please use this as a reference for choosing the size.
By the way, the reason I ride a METROPOLITAN is simply because it's cool.
Personally, I think the most important point when choosing frames is whether you think they are "purely cool."

So, let's move on to the parts introduction.
First, let's start with the handlebar area.

The handlebars are SIM WORKS by NITTO's chromium riser bar MOWMOW BAR CrMo.
"Iron" handlebars are common on BMX handlebars and keirin drop handlebars, but riser bars are almost always made from aluminum, making them a rather rare item.
It is over 100g heavier than the aluminum riser bar also made by NITTO, but the reason I still use it is because I want to take advantage of the flexibility of iron and "ride as gently as possible for my body."
Once you're over 30, you need to take care of your body.

The length is 700mm and uncut.
It's a little longer than the typical 650-680mm, which I like.

I think this length issue is a matter of preference, but if it is longer than this it will be much more difficult to pass through the gap between the car in the left lane and the sidewalk.
Of course, I generally ride on the road, but on the rare occasions when I do run onto the sidewalk, I'm scared I might hit a pedestrian and think, "What a nuisance."
By the way, when customers see handlebars longer than 650mm in the store, they often say, "It's too long!!"
This seems to be a blind spot for many people, but in that case there is a solution called cutting (narrowing the width).
So just cut it to the length you want.
The labor cost for cutting the handle at BROTURES is a whopping ¥500.
For some reason, it's cheaper than changing tires (¥1,000-).
(The length can be cut in increments of about 5 mm. So you can say, "Cut both bridges by 2.5 cm!" Feel free to be selfish.)

By the way, the stems are also from NITTO.
Among the many NITTO products, this product belongs to the so-called "welded" category, and is characterized by its slender details that do not detract from the sharp look of the frame.
I used a 100mm extension, but to be honest, I made a mistake here. It's quite long.
It seems like 80mm is best, so I'm considering buying a new one.
This kind of trial and error is part of the fun of customization.

The brake lever is PAUL LOVE LEVER.
If I were to install brake levers, I would always go for PAUL.
I love the machined look and the brakes feel amazing.
This is a brand that is also endorsed by Toriyama-sensei from the Osaka store, a perverted old man who is a huge fan of PAUL at BROTURES.
Moreover, it seems that the next part I'm aiming to purchase is this LOVE LEVER, so I really have my stamp of approval.

Especially after reading this blog, I felt like I couldn't compete with him, so I'll refrain from writing any more about my personal love for PAUL. (laughs)
But anyway, it's the best brake lever in terms of both appearance and braking performance. It's expensive, but it's definitely worth it, and I think it's a masterpiece in the world of bicycles.

By the way, Toriyama at the Osaka store is the same age as me and we look alike, so wherever we go people tease us about whether we are the same person or brothers, but I want to make something clear here.
I am the older brother. (Miya was born in April, Toriyama was born in January)

Next is the saddle.
I switched to this earlier this year, replacing my previous favourite, FABRIC.
WTB's SL8 CROMOLY.
It feels pretty good.

I have weak hips, and if I run more than 50km a day, I definitely get hemorrhoids.
(I'm confident that I'm the weakest anal among the BROTURES staff.)
The saddle that I recommend on a daily basis is definitely one that doesn't cause pain in the buttocks.
I really think you can trust me on this one thing.

When you look at the back of the SL8 CROMOLY, you can see that it has a gaping hole like this, and it's designed to be very gentle on your buttocks. Even Boragiol was surprised.
Another highly recommended saddle by Miya is the FIZIK TMPO ARGO R3 saddle, which has a very open fit, but your bottom will get soaked on rainy days, so this is a good choice for those who are concerned about that.

( FIZIK TMPO ARGO R3)

The SL8 CROMOLY looks great on the piste and I really like the leather-like texture of the material. If you're having trouble deciding on a saddle, this is the one for you.

Of course, the seatpost is also from SIM WORKS by NITTO.
This item is made by hand one by one, with great care and effort by skilled craftsmen at a factory in Fukushima.
It has such an overwhelming presence that it feels inelegant to discuss it in numerical terms, such as whether it is light or heavy.
I think this is already a form of art that belongs in the category of "bicycle parts."

The seat clamp is Philwood to match the hub described below.
Like PAUL, it's MADE IN USA.
It was originally highly polished to a brilliant shine, but it has faded quite a bit recently.
This worn out texture is also nice.

The wheels are hand-built using H PLUS SON AT-25s and Philwood hubs.
This is also a matter of differing preferences, but I personally place importance on a sense of uniformity when viewed from a distance, so I prefer to have the same wheels front and back.

The colors are also matched, with the rims being HLH (HAIR LINE HARD) and, although it's hard to tell from the photo, the hubs are gunmetal.
My favorite thing about it is the exquisite gradation that matches the frame color.

I have complete confidence in Phil hubs, and I even use the same LOW FLANGE hubs on my other NJS.
I'm also interested in the RAKETA which is due to arrive soon, and the distinctive feature of these hubs with thick shells is that you can really feel the rigidity when riding.
Phil's bearings are custom-made sealed bearings, so I feel they are truly trustworthy, especially in terms of durability.
To my experience, it feels similar to the difference between a square taper BB and an outboard BB. Phil's hub doesn't turn very much when you turn it by hand, but once you're riding and picking up speed, it starts to turn a lot.
Only those who have actually used it can understand this difference, so if you have never used a Phil hub, I highly recommend you give it a try.

The crank is SRAM OMNIUM and the chainring is RAKETA 49T.
I simply love the look of OMNIUM.

This may seem surprising, but in terms of my impressions, there isn't anything particularly outstanding about it.
When it comes to OMNIUM, the specifications can change significantly depending on the bearings you pair it with, for better or worse.
If I had to say one good thing about it, it would be that it is incredibly strong and has a simple structure, making it easy to maintain.
I haven't used it at all, but there's no doubt that it's a crank that's highly trusted by people who do tricks and other serious stuff.

The chainring is RAKETA's AERO CHAINRING.
The cut-out part is like an electric fan, so I think it has a great gyro effect. (The placebo effect is important.)

The bottom bracket is Philwood, as are the hubs.
I had my car overhauled last week for the first time in a while. (And it was pouring rain on the way back.)
I basically ride my bike 365 days a year, even in the rain or through typhoons (snow is a no-go), so I can't imagine anyone other than Phil as a BB for this type of riding that is harsh on the bike.
I think this is the most reliable BB for riders who use it hard for commuting to work or school.

The cog is EURO-ASIA's entry-level DLX STEEL 17T.
It is made of tightly packed iron, so you can feel its hardness, it is highly precise, and the shape of the teeth is beautiful, so it makes little noise.
I love the rugged look of bare steel, but once the oil runs out it starts to rust. (Horror)

(EURO-ASIA SUPERSTAR)

By the way, if you choose the mid-grade SUPERSTAR or above, the coating will prevent rust.
It's stress-free and the chain comes off more smoothly, so I use SUPERSTAR for my NJS.

It's a tire.
Front: ENVE SES ROAD TIRE 25c
The layers are quite thick and the maximum air pressure is designed to be quite low at 90psi, so the tire feels like it has more grip and cushioning than a 25c tire.
It seems to have been jointly developed with TUFO, but I personally feel that the rolling is not that great. (This is my personal opinion.)

The rear tire is the CONTINENTAL GATORSKIN, an extremely popular tire from BROTURES, selling over 400 units a year.
I've been trying out 28c as it seems to be the latest trend, and it feels pretty good.
The compound isn't that good, so up to 25c I felt like it would be quite slippery on rainy days, but by increasing the volume to 28c this is largely alleviated.

In terms of tires, the most important thing for me is that both the front and rear are equipped with TPU tubes.

(RideNow TPU Road Inner Tube)
*Miya uses TUBOLITO, a TPU tube that we used to sell.
Currently available at RIDE NOW.

Both SES ROAD and GATORSKIN place emphasis on strength and durability rather than a light ride, so their weakness is that they roll heavier than thinner models.
However, by incorporating a TPU tube that significantly increases lightness and air volume, we have overcome each of these weaknesses to the maximum extent possible.
This TPU tube not only overcomes these weaknesses, but is also recommended for use as a booster to improve the driving performance of flagship models such as the CONTINENTAL GP5000 and PANARACER AGILEST.
In fact, it rolls much better than regular butyl, so it will become a must-have and recommended item for those using the popular TPU tubes and clincher tires.

The pedals are the strongest domestic platform pedals, MKS ALLWAYS.
The sides are pretty worn down, but I can still use it without any problems.
They are so durable that once you buy them you almost never have to replace them, so they're a nightmare for bike shops.
Even when brand new, the bearings spin incredibly well, the spike placement ensures that they bite firmly into the soles of your sneakers, and the large tread area are all fantastic.

(BROTURES INFEEL)

For comparison, there is the BROTURES IFEEL pedal, but the spike grip and body thickness are very different.
Neither is better or worse, so I'd encourage you to try both and find your preference.


Finally, I completely forgot to mention the front rack, the Wholegrain Cycles Jack the Bike Rack, which I use to carry basketballs on my days off.

A six-pack of canned beer fits right in here when I get home from work.
No tools are required and once you get used to it, it can be attached and removed in just 2-3 minutes, so it is especially recommended for people who own multiple bicycles.

This has gotten long, but this is how my METROPOLITAN is put together overall.
My immediate challenge is to shorten the stem length.
Also, although I'm not in a hurry, I'd like to change the front tire to a GP5000 28c.

In other words, it's not that I like everything about it and can't imagine anything else, but I'm still looking for room for improvement.

The value of a fixed gear bike is in customization.

Just when you think it's complete, you can change it up by adding more parts or adding different parts.
If possible, I would like to constantly update both my car and myself.

Naturally, we at BROTURES have a wealth of experience with and recommendations on these parts, so we're always happy to welcome and enjoy consulting about customization.
Please feel free to ask any questions or talk about anything that seems strange to you.

If you're interested in METROPOLITAN, you're of course welcome to test drive it, so if you see me, please feel free to say hello.

Well then.